The O scale Kings website really belongs to all O scalers, so tell us what’s on your workbench! This page is dedicated to sharing what modelers are doing and what can be done. There are those that know how to get things done and those that need a little encouragement and or knowledge as to how to begin. Maybe this workbench series will help us help you in your modeling. Please share with us what you are doing on your workbench. Send us an Email with a few good quality pictures and description email@example.com
What’s on the workbench May 2021
Hey fellow O scale 2 railers! Well another month has snuck up on me! It’s true: time does fly when you’re having fun. And Model Railroading is FUN !!!!
This month I want to share with you a tip that was passed on to me from a fellow model railroader. I’m sure like many of you, I’ve used terminal strips over the years of the Old Screw type contacts, because, let’s face it, sometimes we just have to undo things that we have done. Using the screw type terminal strips enabled removal for change, troubleshooting, and corrections. But I always honestly felt that it was troublesome and labor-intensive. I have been introduced to these Wago lever type connectors. These things are cool! Not really expensive, and available in multiple formats. They allow for different wire sizes to be connected together.
I have tried these in a couple of different applications and do not think I will go back to any other type of connector. The best part of these to me, is the ability to lift the lever and remove a wire, and then make a change, do troubleshooting, reinsert the wire and lock it back in place with the lever. No tools needed. Below is a shot of a terminal strip I made under my turntable with several of these connectors and some five-minute epoxy. I thought about just using a piece of double-sided tape but unfortunately my supply drawer was empty. Also below is a shot of one of the boxes I bought off of Amazon when I had a prime membership. I have found prime memberships to be very dangerous to this model railroader and so have let mine lapse, but that’s a story for another day.
Another thing I like about these, most common screw type terminal strips are straight across connections, but I always seem to need 2, 3, 4 junctions. Which always meant finding the jumper terminals or making some with a piece of copper wire. These are available in that format.
I recommend you pick up a box and see if they will ease your wiring as they have done mine.
I would like to challenge all of you to set a goal to send me something on your workbench for the month of June. I am sure I am not the only guy out there doing anything on his model railroad amongst the membership of the O scale Kings / O scale two railers.
All we need is a page or so of text and a picture or 2. I used my cell phone to take these pictures, so they do not have to be professional grade. If nobody sends me anything for next month, you’ll get another dose of what’s going on the Maryland & Black Diamond railroad.
What’s on the workbench April 2021
It is April Fools’ Day! I am not sure if the joke is on me or on you, but nobody has submitted anything for this column, so you are stuck with me again. This feature is not supposed to be a monthly report on what Bruce B. Blackwood is doing. It is not intended to be a professional author grade article, nor professional grade photos. Just a page or two of text and one or two snapshots. These pictures can even be taken with your cell phone. Heck, if you are like me, your cell phone probably has more resolution than your old digital camera. I believe that when we share projects we are working on, there may be enough of a spark to get someone working on their own project. It may also be the someone can glean just a tidbit of knowledge from your project to overcome a challenge on their project. Please review what you have been working on/what’s on your workbench and send me a short writeup to pastpresident@Oscalekings.org.
One of the things that I miss most during this pandemic is visiting other’s layouts, and not just O scale two rail, although they take priority. I generally have three takeaways from these visits.
Number one: What perfection! How do I get there on my layout?
Number two: Things I really liked. How do I incorporate that on my layout?
Number three: Things I really did not like. How do I avoid that on my layout? Now this is not meant as a negative, but I do try to be honest enough with myself to admit that there are some things I do not want to spend time effort and money to model. In fact, one of things I like most about model railroading is the many different facets of the hobby and that there is always something of value to learn. I believe all knowledge learned in model railroading can help you in life. Quick little story — shortened for this article. For many years, my wife and I owned a model train hobby shop, and naturally with my mechanical background, offered repairs. I cannot tell you how many Lionel diesel horns I have repaired over the years. For many reasons, which the largest was cost of health insurance for two adults that just seemed to get older every year and with four kids, we decided to close the shop and find full-time employment for me. I applied to the DC Metro system as an electrician on the rail cars. As part of a hands-on test, a few components were supplied. Using these components, the applicants were to breadboard up a buzzer. Well, the buzzer was an old Lionel like Horn! It was like somebody had an old F unit they had taken apart. I put that circuit together so fast and had the horn blowing that I almost did not trust myself to have completed this correctly.
Back in January, I set some goals for myself including finishing some projects on my workbench. Having completed several of those projects, I found myself worked into a corner so to speak, and that required revisiting a bigger project of layout expansion. Thus, my workbench has been pretty much untouched during the month of March. But during the month of March, I did build and install a test/programming/dedicated track. I still think I am very much a beginner in JMRI/decoder Pro, but feel that I have learned that QSI decoders found in many of my Atlas and Sunset engines do not play well with Decoder Pro. Honestly, because of the amount of time, effort, and expense I have put into my programming desk with a dedicated laptop and programming track, I am somewhat fearful of adding a QSI programming device. The answer seemed to me to be a separate programming/test track for these QSI decoders.
The project involved cutting a piece of plywood, installing two hinges, and mounting this to my railroad’s fascia. I also built two supports using dowels to align everything when the track was in the upright position. Since this is on my railroad’s fascia, I determined that I needed to ballast the track. After soldering a pair of feeder wires to the rail, some of my “siding mix” ballast was glued in place. Some of you of all ready see a problem with this I have not installed any type of device that will stop the Locomotive from running off the ends of this track. This could lead to a major disaster! Not only can operator error lead to a locomotive hitting the floor, but often you will get locomotive creep when programming as a form of acknowledgment that the CV was changed. You say that could never happen. I beg to differ. On my permanent programming track, I learned from experience that locomotives will creep and followed the advice from those wiser than I and cut a dead section between programming track and layout track. I look forward to wiring up this section with the QSI programmer and learning how to tweak the decoders in a few more my locomotives. Thanks, Bruce.
What’s on the workbench March 2021
I’m back!!! I’m just going to start out by begging for submissions for this column. I know I’m not the only person that has something on an OS2R (O Scale 2 Rail) workbench amongst our membership. This is not intended to be my column. It is also not intended to be a high-quality / super professional layout. We need about a page of text along with a picture or two. Articles that would be especially helpful are those with some sort of tip to show and pass along. Please send your submissions to me at firstname.lastname@example.org. I’m going to show and tell about a cost saving and fun to learn electronic project. If you’re into DCC, you understand the need for a keep alive to deal with dirty track and momentary loss of power. I am just really in the throes of installing motor control decoders and sound decoders in my locomotives. First couple of my installs were without a keep alive and thus problems presented themselves, especially in the hard to reach and clean track areas. I bought a couple of keep a lives and was adding the cost to my installs when I came across a YouTube video on how to build your own keep a lives.
( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhK4HuJb6Ws )
Following the instructions given in a well done video, I ordered up some parts and started building my own. You need a few tools and some real basic soldering skills, then you can save yourself enough money that it’s worthwhile. I also learned a few things along the way. Again, please send me your write ups of what’s on your on your workbench. Thanks, Bruce
What’s on the workbench February 2021
Hey gang, just like that another month has slipped by us. I hope you all are well. I try to take the 1st of February to review some of the New Year’s resolutions/goals I set a month ago. I hope you do the same, especially with the goals you set toward your model railroad; whether that be a layout, adding something new to your collection ( the hunt is on! ) and probably most importantly, learning a new skill set or improving upon one that you may have been struggling with. One of the things I was working on during January proved that to absolutely be the case for me. I’ve been working on adding sound and DCC to a few of my locomotives / finishing some of these projects that have been on the back burner for quite some time. Last couple of weeks has been filled with chasing gremlins! I guess it’s model railroader’s law as I had a couple of friends/customers stop by. Now don’t get your tracks in a knot, we practiced social distancing as much as possible and always wore masks, and none of us had felt sick or thought we had been exposed to Covid. This was about a week ago, and nobody is reporting ill effects. Anyway, I had run a train around the layout making five loops the night before without a problem, and of course, as soon as I got the train moving that morning, a car that has never derailed, derailed in spot that I do not have issues with derailments. As I was trying to complete a power on board conversion this month past, I ran into a partially broken wire at a connector that was intermittently making contact. Yes, it was the electrician’s worse problem, an intermittent one. After I found that and fixed it, a section of my layout went dead for no apparent reason, fortunately, I “think” I have some troubleshooting skills and it didn’t take terribly long to find that a quick disconnect had disconnected when I had pushed a box back on the shelf. That wire will be to the attached to the bottom of the bench work so it’s not just hanging. Once I got things to a normal state, the learning began. But that’s best left for another day’s discussion.
For this month’s “What’s on Your Workbench”, I want to share with you a little side project I did to take a break from chasing some of the frustrating gremlins. I found a Corgi 1:50 a scale recovery Wrecker and decided that it was just crying for some additional work. So, I set about disassembling it by removing a few screws and then drilled out the headlights and installed a pair of LEDs. I think it was about this point, as I was starting to weather the interior, that I fell into the rabbit hole. The model came with a plastic casting of a beacon. It was nice, but I felt it needed more. So out it came, and a flashing orange LED was ordered. I will best describe this as being nowhere near a flashing orange LED. So back to Amazon they went. A better 3 mm amber color LED was ordered. A search on the old Internet and a simple circuit to create a flashing LED was found.
Once this was built, the model was weathered and reassembled with mini plugs so that I can drill a hole in the layout when I find that perfect spot and plug it into the flasher circuit and its little power supply circuit that will run off of my accessory lighting bus. This was a rather quick/easy project, but one that was a nice break from other things. I hope you’ll share what’s on your workbench for next month and beyond. We are looking for about a page of text and maybe a couple of photos. Please send them to me at email@example.com Thanks, Bruce
What’s on the workbench February 2021
Our new president, David Vaughn, has asked me to continue soliciting/writing the what’s on your workbench column. The since it’s 3rd of January and I have no one else in line, you’ll have to suffer through another one of mine.
So, a few months back I challenged you to set some goals and lead out with four of my own. One of those goals was to finish a bridge for my Highline. Well I failed. Now I could give you a bunch of excuses about parts not arriving thanks to the USPS mail slow down, (Just for grins, a pair of headlight castings left Gettysburg PA on December 10 headed to Mount Airy Maryland which is probably 35-40 miles away, the headlight castings arrived January 3, 2021. Seems that for the $3.80 postage charge from the USPS entitled my headlight castings for a trip to North Carolina via Baltimore. Now Baltimore is only about 25 miles from my house. The return leg from North Carolina went through Hyattsville Maryland which again is 30-35 miles away but south of me instead of North. My headlight castings apparently spent a week and a half sitting in Hyattsville. ) or that kids came home for Christmas break and family always trumps model railroading, or that a procrastinator like me met new shopping challenges with Corvid. But those are all just that, excuses. Like most of my model railroading projects, building this bridge caught me quite a few lessons. I’m sure some of you of have experienced the difficulty of getting a small piece of metal to go through a carpenter’s glue joint. I have a new respect for those of you who choose to hand lay al of your track. When I was looking at putting in several hundred tie plates and two spikes per plate, the task seemed overwhelming.
One of the great things about model railroading (especially OS2R) is that many of you are willing to share your knowledge freely, and one of the Gettysburg 5 helped me with spike selection and then it just became monotonous and not frustrating. I was bending to 3 out of 4 spikes due to using the long wrong length. I’m happy to report that all the tie plates are in and spiked so I can move on to the next phase of this project, but I digress, what this month’s column is really about is making a temporary workbench. My workshop bench is buried in projects. And honestly in the interest of time, I just was not willing to spend the hours it would take to clean it off and put everything away on these other projects that I was waiting for parts to arrive …
But there I go digressing again, so as I was without a workbench that would handle the length of this bridge, I noticed I had a piece of plywood sitting on a pair sawhorses that was basically a temporary place to pile other projects. I convinced myself to take the time to put those projects away and proceeded work on my bridge. I soon found that to see the small spikes I needed a floodlight, so I set up a tripod with an LED lamp so it would not get to warm. This was great but I was constantly leaning over the bridge to get to the other side of the rail and couldn’t see anything. Well it just happened that someplace (may have been Wally world) had a sale on 4 foot LED lamp assemblies instead of the 4 foot fluorescent tubes.
These fixtures came wired with a plug ready to go, so I installed the included eye hooks and hung it over top of my temporary workbench with the supplied chain. It is amazing how much light a couple strips of LEDs can put out. This really helped me finish spiking the rail to the ties. I like it so much that I’m not sure this is going to be a real temporary fixture in the basement. I believe I paid 10 bucks these LED light fixtures. May I suggest that you might think about obtaining one for a temporary workbench of your own.
So, I am again looking for folks who would like to share with us what is on your workbench. Doesn’t need to be long and elaborate, maybe a page or two and a couple of quick photos. Would love to hear from you. Send to pastpresident@OscaleKings.org
Milwaukee NW2 Project Finished
By Rich Randall
I painted it and installed a Tsunami 2 sound decoder, speaker, TCS KA-2 keep-alive, partial cab interior, glazing, spark arrestors, and crew. It still needs weathering. Happily, it runs very well. (See a few projects below is for the beginning of this project)
The American Orient Express
A long-term project for me, with my wife Karen’s encouragement, is an 18 car train, the American Orient Express, on which we took 5 trips throughout the US and Canada. I started accumulating cars from some rejects from K-Line, but the majority of my cars are Boxcar Ken passenger cars in which the windows were not cut out. The correct window configurations were put on these cars by OK Streamline.
I wanted to do these cars right, which meant full interiors in the observation car, the club car – with its grand piano, & the 2 dining cars, which were placed back-to back on the consist, where my wife enjoyed the opulence of the past (which got her on these trips) – being served 5-star gourmet meals and wines with white glove service.
Next came the sleeping cars. This was a challenge… trying to recall all the different configurations of these cars from Presidential Suites to regular Pullman compartments. I am still working on these interiors. At most times, there were 158 passengers sleeping on this train, plus the crew, with a porter for each individual sleeping car, who brought us whatever we needed to start the day, and kept us supplied throughout, with whatever we needed.
My next project will be the Superdome, where Karen & I spent many romantic nights watching the stars go by throughout the US and Canada. Then will come the crew cars, and of course, the baggage cars.
Pulling this consist will be 2 Genesis locomotives. More to come…
Back in the day, that is before the Internet, it may have been challenging to quickly find information on a topic. Case in point, I wanted to learn about gears, how they work, how to calculate the engineering aspects around speed, rpm, torque etc. It just so happens on my work bench I was playing around with a gear box design that probably came from the model race car guys to adapt it for powering a locomotive.
So wouldn’t you know it, I found the files to 3D Print the basic parts. In fact, I thought I could improvement upon it. The lure to this design was to provision the motor higher up I the engine body while the drive shaft could align and power the trucks out both ends of the box.
With lightening speed I jumped across the Internet to https://sciencing.com/how-7602582-calculate-rack-pinion.html to read about gears, reduction ratio calculations and counting teeth. The size of the gear box was just about perfect for O Scale. To improve the gear box, I wanted to use a Pittman motor and perhaps use ball bearing on pinion and main shaft. For now as proof of concept, I settled for cutting some brass tubing and printed the pillow blocks to get to a run time test faster.
The parts in the photos below illustrate the CAD model above.
If installed on a race car the rpm would be very high given the type motor used. For a switch engine application I would want the gear ratio to be able to drive the engine at slow speeds. Additional work needs to be done and bench or stress test this before using it in a locomotive. Files for the gear box are located at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2301751
And that is what is on my work bench today.
WEAVER RS-3 DEMONSTRATORS
What is on my workbench now is a look backward and a look forward: I have two Weaver RS-3 “Demonstrators.” When Weaver launched its RS-3 model, the Company used its very accomplished screen painters to prepare two in demonstrator paint and numbered them 1 and 2. The practice mimicked prototype manufacturers publicizing new models by sending them on barn-storming tours. I don’t know if Weaver actually sent the demonstrators around to clubs or conventions, but it did use the units in advertising.
I don’t know how many RS-3s Weaver sold over the years, but it has to have been a large number. After Weaver closed its doors in 2017, Bob Lavezzi and I purchased a lot of the pieces and parts, including the spare parts for brass locomotives. Among the other pieces I picked up was one of the two RS-3 Demonstrators, which was on display in Weaver owner Joe Hayter’s office. I picked up several other pieces of Weaver memorabilia, including the original painting pictured in one of the photographs. It was also used by Weaver in advertising.
I knew there had been two RS-3s painted as demonstrators, and I wondered what had happened to the second one. Weaver did not have it. Forward to March Meet 2020. Dave Dillingham (I think), the fellow sitting at Table A-2, next to me, had a Weaver Demonstrator sitting on his table: the missing Number 2. It was covered with dust. I asked him where he got it and he said he had purchased it years before but could not recall from where. He did not think it was anything special. I bought it ($100?), brought it back home, cleaned it up and coupled it to Number 1. The team was back together.
I hope to use the Weaver RS-3 demonstrators to take around to different clubs and private layouts, in commemoration of Weaver. But how to configure the units when some layouts are DC, some DCC and somc DSC or other non-standard control systems? Answer: dead rail. Place a battery in the units or a trailing car, install a radio receiver and control the units with a radio throttle. To be sure, this is not my first brush with dead rail: in advance of the 2004 DC area Scale O National Convention, and fearing that my DCC-equipped layout would shut down from some electronic glitch with a layout-full of visitors, I had solicited help from Pat Mitchell and wired a NKP berkshire (779, a USH model) with both DCC and dead rail receivers (with batteries in the tender) and an A/B switch to toggle to either mode. I never had to use the berk battery mode – thank goodness – and remain a dead rail newby.
Weaver RS-3 Demonstrators handle a Reefer hotshot at Photographers curve on David Vaughn’s restored Canandaigua Southern, as a CS coal drag passes on the other main.
So I am puzzling over how to configure the units. I bought some Tam Valley components. I can put a receiver in one, wire the motors of the two units together and try to save room for batteries in the second unit. I would like to avoid having to hide batteries in a trailing car. Other than my 2004 engine, I have no dead rail experience.
So the famous Weaver Demonstrators, 1 and 2, are still sitting on my workbench, waiting conversion (the photos on my layout which might look like they are operating are for scenic effect only!). Thoughts and suggestions from OS2R modelers on how best to proceed will be appreciated. Thanks. NKP48@AOL.com
Milwaukee NW2 Project work progress
By Rich Randall
I bought a General Models NW2 switcher, painted black, with a very nice drive mechanism, but no lighting or couplers.
Image 1 below is the bare switcher.
Image 2 below shows the excellent drive mechanism, the real reason I bought it.
So my project is to make it look like a Milwaukee Road switcher like those working out west in the 70s. I will add a DCC sound decoder, speaker, LED lights, a partial cab interior, and crew.
Images 3 and 4 below shows a couple of the Milwaukee NW2s. More to follow!
A Lightbulb Moment
By Bruce B. Blackwood, June, 2020
Yes I know it’s been a while, and it’s not that I have anything on my workbench. I certainly have had maybe too much on my workbench. But I had a problem and this is how I solved it.
My basement is sort of Z-shaped and I have three light switches at the top of the stairs, one for each section of layout lighting. I freely admit that I’m forgetful enough that I don’t want to leave power on in the basement and have that random soldering iron burn down the railroad and the house above it for that matter. I will often go down and just turn the lights on in the section that I am going to be working in. But then if I need to go grab something from the other section it’s dark.
So I have a lightbulb moment and said luck, why don’t you just install one or two lights in each of the outside rooms and run a switch leg down so that if you need something in a dark room you can just turn on the light Bob or two without having to go all the way back up the stairs. I’m sure some of you can relate to that challenge. So I did and it’s very nice.
However my forgetfulness would often lead to leaving those lights on. Another lightbulb moment I thought said hey why not run a piece of fiber optic to The top of the stairs as an indicator that I had left lights on. I don’t know a lot about fiber optic so I asked the Gettysburg group for advice. Got some great feedback including one suggestion of just running a line over to the steps and plugging a 15 W Bob. But hey it’s 2020 and I like to learn things so I did some Internet searching on a circuit for an LED. I then found that you could just go on Amazon and have 120 V LEDs delivered to your door as soon as the next day. I jumped on it. They were delivered the next day and surprisingly inexpensive.
I drilled three holes into a plastic wall plate and mounted them up soldered some new leads onto the back of the LEDs and ran them to the cables Mount at the box underneath one of the stair Lipps stair treads and guess what when I head up the steps The indicator light might be on which just tells me I have to go turn the lights up. No I know this might seem just plain silly to a lot of you and it is. But I enjoy projects like this, and I learned a few things.
Thanks Bruce in Mount airy Maryland
Colorado Midland’s Leslie Plow
Andrew Dodge, MMR
The rotary snowplow was probably the most important piece of maintenance equipment a railroad needed during winters in the Colorado Rocky Mountains. In 1887 the Colorado Midland Railway began operations, and the following year they purchased rotary snowplow from the Leslie Brothers Company of Paterson, New Jersey. The brass hats in the main office realized that after the first year they could not rely solely upon what would become known as the “Midland Snowbirds,” hand shovelers to remove the snow. The plow had a nine-foot rotary blade with a shroud extending out an additional foot on each side. At 11 feet across, the machine would clear a path wide enough for any Midland equipment. The original Leslie design of the body resembled a “greenhouse” with large windows along both sides and in the operator’s area just behind the rotary and impeller blades. No doubt the windows provided the operating and steam engine crews with plenty of light and a nice panoramic view of the mountains in the winter, but of little practical value. One can only imagine all the broken glass that had to be repaired each winter.
In 1895 the Midland decided to rebuild the body of the plow. The railway’s shop converted the body of the machine to a more conventional and durable design, which included a minimal number of windows and a larger work space for both crews in the machine. The plow served the railroad well as its sole snow removal machine until the terrible winter in early 1899. The winter snow was so bad that the Midland had to rent a Jull machine from the Santa Fe and another rotary from the Rock Island. In 1900 the Midland bought a larger 11-foot bladed machine from the Schenectady Locomotive Company. The Leslie plow was renamed from “08” to “Rotary A” and the new machine was designated “Rotary B.” Both machines survived until abandonment of the line in 1918. The Midland Terminal Railway bought the Leslie machine in 1921, and it served that railroad until its demise in 1949.
The model is based on post-1895 rebuilt machine. The design and layout information follows photographs and specification information published in Morris Cafky’s and Dan Abbott’s books. It is totally scratch built to Proto48 standards with a few castings such as side frames for the trucks, some of the machinery castings inside, and the water hatch on the tender. Everything works and when powered up, the impeller blades create a breeze out the exhaust chute.
I’d like to start out this month by asking each of you to tell us what’s on your workbench. When I suggested this “column” if you will, I did not intend it to be a clearinghouse of my projects. I’m sure there’s many of you out there that are doing some very interesting things on your workbench. Please send us an write up / article of what you’re doing! It does not have to be fancy and if it’s not even well-written that’s okay too. I am certainly no great author. Include a couple of snapshots. But please share share, share ?
So as this is the end of March, I decided I would send out another write up for April. One of the good things about our website, is that we do not have page restrictions or time restrictions. What I mean by that is if you have something going on your workbench and write it up, send it in to our webmaster Dan. He can put it up immediately. Mine doesn’t have to be up for a month. I think we are moving along nicely with membership and therefore would like to see us have a new what’s on your workbench every two weeks or so. So again, please share!
We can all learn from each other. Yours may even be a great motivational article to another. So as for me, I decided to take on a project that keeps me off my workbench. I have decided to use that old “painted floor joists black” trick to help all that stuff disappear.
I have included a before and after picture of a small area. I’d like to tell you a few things I’ve learned from this project. Number one: I went out and bought myself one of those hand held electric “Wagner” type paint sprayers. I quickly learned that to get this type of sprayer to work you had the thin latex paint so far that you could not get decent coverage with one coat. I also found that because of its feed through a tube in the attached container, it was virtually worthless at most of the angles overhead.
The super thin paint would drip everywhere. Fortunately, I had invested in several cheap plastic drop cloths. So, my second effort became a 2-inch brush (which of course, is all you really need according to one famous painter — Maybe that was just for happy trees?) Anyway, this resulted in much better coverage with the latex paint because it was no longer thinned, but man did it take forever and was still somewhat of a messy job.
Trying to get into all the little cavities and such that existed and honestly, exposed wiring was a real pain. So, for my recent birthday my sweet wife bought me a airless paint sprayer. After watching several YouTube videos, I was sure that this was going to be the absolute. I can tell you that out of all the methods I’ve tried this is the best. However, the amount of prep time is significantly increased. And the amount of cleanup time is greatly increased.
This has not been without learning experiences, like not forgetting to use a pair of wrenches to make sure all the connections on the hose are tight. This device is basically a motor that is used with a propeller to pull the paint up out of the bucket and send it through the hose to the sprayer at high pressure, so that no air is involved. For a rough work like just covering floor joists, it is very quick and much easier.
I even bought a 2-inch extension to the nozzle so that I can just stand on the floor and get right up in there. There is also a steep learning curve on how fast to go to apply a good coat of paint and not have runs appear on things like the HVAC ducts and so forth. Cheap plastic drops clothes are your friend. Cover everything! A fine mist will coat anything you do not want black. I am now done with probably 1/3 third of my basement and will continue to use this method.
I’m sure it’s just going become easier and easier as I learn the little nuances of airless spraying. The real lesson learned is that I should’ve done this first! I definitely will if I ever get the opportunity to start over and build another layout in another house. I will empty the basement and spray everything above black then put up my backdrops before any bench work is started. (that’s my plan if ?. Easy to say now) So tell us, do you do a black-out or have you installed a drop ceiling? thanks, Bruce.
By Bruce B. Blackwood, February 14, 2019
Hello and welcome, so I know spring is a long way away, but my spring cleaning has begun!
Last segment I talked about a finishing a coupler job …. Update … Talked to MNP at the Amherst show. They may design a coupler pocket for “kadee” couplers. Tells me we can and should tell the O scale manufactures what we would like to see … they want and need our input.
A few days ago, I went down and looked at my workbench and realized that I had probably a half dozen projects running, creating a situation where I had really no room to do anything. I had purchased another copy of ITLA’s 1st full O scale building kit at the Amherst show, after drooling over their display models. Nick reports sales are going well on this limited-edition kit, so don’t delay if you are thinking about one. So, I need space to work on the kit. I also have been working on the layout space for the building. And thus, Spring cleaning begins!
This is somewhat of a tale of how one project leads to others, let me explain. I have an IMRC or maybe a Red Caboose reefer kit sitting on the side of my work bench that had one truck missing. So, I looked all over the workbench and of course could not find it. So, I went to my box of wheels and trucks, pulled out a set of Intermountain metal wheels and a pair of their sprung trucks in kit form. I assembled the trucks and yes, I use the needle and thread method to contain the springs during assembly. I will freely admit that the coordination in my left hand is not what it used to be before the stroke. Thus, using the needle to run the thread thru the spring to act as keeper works well and serves well to keep me off the floor searching for what ultimately becomes a smashed or flat spring.
What I like to do is polish the treads of the wheels. I’ve seen this on a couple of the models that some of the well-known professionals have produced. I’m not sure how they do it. My method is typically a wire brush in a Dremel tool with the wheelset in my hand and slowly rotating the wheelset against the spinning metal brush. So, the obvious thing here I hope, is to wear eye protection — and not just a pair of eyeglasses! Something that will offer real protection. I will also suggest to you that buying better quality wire brushes is money well spent. Don’t know where or when I got them, but I bought a batch of wire brushes that have no information such as part number or manufacture or anything like that. They don’t last even one tread! The wire bristles just fly out. And of course, right toward my eyes. I don’t seem to have that problem with the ones that are higher-quality like Dremel. Your experiences of what brands you like, and dislike would be a tip well worth passing on to other modelers. I will tell you that putting a cheap wire brush in the chuck and having it basically come apart instantly can be very discouraging.
So, another method I’ve tried is putting a felt polishing wheel in the chuck and repeating the above procedure. I would like you all to look at the attached photo of three wheelsets. The way they come from Intermountain is on the left, one in the middle is the felt wheel and the one on the right is done with a wire brush. Do you see a difference? Also, please tell me if you think it’s worth the trouble? At this point I’m not so sure. Maybe there’s a better way of doing this? I would welcome your comments and tips.
I mentioned that this project led to another project. After I polish the tread, I like to paint the center of the wheel. this was becoming frustrating as I typically just push the wheel set into a piece of soft Styrofoam. Not being one of my better days for dexterity, they keep getting knocked off and on to the bench and into the drawers and all that type of stuff. So, I decided it was time to build a wheel holder to paint the centers. Here is a photo of my quickie wheel holder made from some scrap scale lumber on hand. It took a couple of tries as I forgot that I had to have clearance for the wheel not getting paint to slide on. Thus, I went from straight legs to angled legs. This allows the wheels to be flat and keeps the paint on the wheel, instead of running off if vertical. Here’s something else and I would like to know. If you know, please pass it on. You should notice that not only is the tread polished, but the actual side of the tread is also polished. I’ve noticed this on the one foot to the foot scale cars. I don’t really know how that area gets polished. A proto 48 guy I met explained it to me at Amherst, but I forgot to lock it into my memory. So, after the center of the wheels are painted, I reinstall the polished wheel sets into the truck and give the truck a little bit of light weathering. Usually by dry brushing and applying some weathering powders to the truck.
So that’s the latest installment of what’s on my workbench. How about you? What’s on your bench? How about writing up a short article and a couple of photos? The Webmaster would love it.